CONTENTS
Locations visited to explore the Sikh legacy in Pakistan viii
Preface ix
1 In search of our roots 1
2 From Singapore to Amritsar 5
3 From Amritsar to Lahore 8
4 The mystic poet, martyred! 13
5 Cenotaph of the 'Lion of Punjab' 22
6 Lion's burj 31
7 The Lion's cub 47
8 Divine retribution 58
9 Conspiracies in the haveli 64
10 Mohajirs in cenotaphs 73
11 Sukhmani's impact on Wazir 80
12 In the periphery 83
13 Fakir Khana Museum 88
14 Martyrs of Naulakha 95
15 Footprints in Lahore 101
16 The revered Sufi Saint 109
17 The diamond that has never been sold 112
18 The dancing Fakir 117
19 "Boota, where are you?" 124
20 Burden of guilt 128
21 Illegal sales and deeds 132
22 Eat my flesh, leave my eyes 136
23 Some say Ram, some Allah! 143
24 Melting pot 150
25 Universal brotherhood 157
26 "There is no fighting on cabbages!" 162
27 Panja Sahib 166
28 Sikhs at the crossroads? 181
29 Rising from the dead 186
30 Meeting Noori 191
31 Rape of Rawalpindi 197
32 The North-Western Frontier 206
33 From turbulence to prosperity 221
34 Abbotabad 229
35 Jihad 234
36 A bloodied bridge 244
37 Butt Snooker Club 253
38 The road to Jhelum 258
39 Interrogation Centre 274
40 Tears rained from his eyes 287
41 I am with Jogi 295
42 First War of Independence! 309
43 Butchers of Bahauddin 316
44 The humble Saint 323
45 Banno Vali Bir 333
46 Italian Governor's town 348
47 Gaudis of Punjab 356
48 The glory that was 366
49 Worldly illusions 387
50 Buddhu's Awa 396
51 The changing road 401
52 Shalimar Gardens 407
53 Baoli Bagh 415
54 Bhai Mani Singh 418
55 From France to Punjab 422
56 The Philanthropist 425
57 Suva lakh 431
58 Crumbling fort 446
59 Nankana Sahib 462
60 Farewell to Pakistan 486
Glossary 488