TY - GEN AU - Ahmed, Monisha TI - Living fabric : weaving among the nomads of Ladakh Himalaya SN - 9748304876 U1 - 746.10954 PY - 2002/// CY - Trumbull PB - Weatherhill KW - N1 - Contents List of plates 5 List of maps, figures, and tables 7 Note on transcription 8 Acknowledgements 9 Introduction 11 Chapter One : Textile Traditions in Ladakh 14 Locating Rupshu 15 History of weaving and textiles 19 The role of the Moravian Mission 24 Early accounts of textiles in Rupshu 26 Chapter Two : Of Mud And Gods: The Origin Of Rupshu 31 The draining of Tso Kar - creating Rupshu 32 The founding chief 34 Chapter Three : The Livestock Of The Gods 39 We are the people who move behind the sheep and the goats' 42 The route of migration- locating campsites 46 Dedications to the gods, btsan, and klu 49 Changing attitudes to livestock 52 Chapter Four : 'The Livestock Are Naked Now': Gathering And Preparing Fibres 54 Removal of fibres 54 Combing pashmina 56 Removing hair and wool from the yaks 58 Shearing sheep wool 59 Appraising the fibres 65 Imported fibres 67 Preparation of fibres 69 Cleaning and washing 69 Carding 71 Spinning and twisting 71 Chapter Five : Weaving From The WoMB 76 Learning to weave 76 Preparing the warp 78 The loom 81 The backstrap loom 83 The fixed-heddle loom 87 The language of the loom 90 Speaking of gender 90 Restraining the demoness 93 Chapter Six : Cloth Of The Female Loom 97 The threads of connection and continuity 98 The snam-bu 101 Weaving and processing the snam-bu 102 Dyeing 105 Colour prescriptions 106 Cut and stitched - garments made from snam-bu 109 The woman's sul-ma 111 The man's gos 117 Clothing structure, design, and meaning 118 Coverings and containers 119 Design motifs - the roll of the dice 125 Chapter Seven : The Black Tent 129 The structure of the tent 131 The white tent 137 The formation of a new tent 140 Spatial organization within the tent 142 Chapter Eight : The Sheep's Eye: Patterns Of Trade 147 Weaving for trade 148 How to read a saddle-bag 152 Trade in pashmina and wool 156 Setting the price 160 Conclusion are the rupshupa still weaving? 167 Endnotes 172 Appendix. List of Ladakhi place names 180 Glossary 181 Bibliography 185 Index 190 ER -