CONTENTS LETTER I. Departure from England.-Paris.-Fontainbleau.-Dijon.- The Jura.-Beautiful view near Vattay.-Geneva. 1 LETTER II. Aix aux Bains.-Chamber!.-Valley of La Maurienne.-Lansle Bourg.-Passage of Mont Cenis,-Susa.-Valley of the Doria Riparia.-Turin 8 LETTER III. Turin.-Duomo.-Capella della Santissima Sindone.-Palaces.- Museum. -Alexandria. 'larengo. - Genoa. -Beautiful Scenery.-Massa.-Lucca.-Pisa 14 LETTER IV. Pisa - Its origin. - Duomo. - Battistereo. - Campanile.-Campo Santo.-Curious frescos.-Fire in the Hotel.-Road to Florence 22 LETTER V. Florence.-Piazza del Gran Duca.-Gallery.-Palazzo Pitti.-Churches of San Lorenzo and of Santa Croce.-Duomo. -Battistereo.-Campanile.- Museum 28 LETTER VI. Sienna.-Duomo.-Piazza Publica.-Radicofani.- Monte-fiascone.-Campagna di Roma.-Entrance of Rome 36 LETTER VII. Rome.-Coliseum.-Capitol.-St. Peter's.-The Vatican.- The Pantheon.-Fine Paintings and Sculpture in the Palaces and Churches.-Ancient Christians.-Fountains.-Obelisks 43 LETTER VIII. Departure from Rome. - Albano. - Velletri. - Pontine Marshes.-Terracina.-Fondi.-Capua.-A versa 55 LETTER IX. Naples.-Chiesa dei Certosini.-Fine view from thence.- Castle of St. Elmo.-Villa Reale.-Grotto of Pausilippo. -Virgil's tonib.-Museo Borbonico.-Pompeii.-Portici 63 LETTER X. Embarkation in Steaiu-pi,cke*.-Isles of Lipari.-Stromboli.-Straits of Messina.-Scylla and Charybdis.-Harbour of Messina.-Beautiful situation.-Sirocco.-Earthquakes. Shipwrecked Greeks.-La Virgine della Lettera.-Phse-nomenon of La Fata Morgana.-Duomo.-Marina.-Sicilian language, manners, and climate 75 LETTER XI Sicilian Brigantino.-Sirocco.-Augusta.-Brigands.-Lighthouse.-English officers at Augusta.-Sicilian Macca-roni.-Syracuse.-Malta and Gozo 85 LETTER XII. Malta.-^-Bay and Cave of St. Paul.-Order of the Knights of Malta-Duomo.-Palace. - Maltese.-Hospitality.- Caleeshes.-Arrival of the Marquis of Hastings.-Malta, a Missionary Station 94 LETTER XIII. Departure from Malta.-German Missionaries.-Service on board.-Alarm of Pirates -Arrival at Alexandria.-Landing.-Consul's House.-Pompey's, or Diocletian's Pillar 105 LETTER XIV. Franks at Alexandria.-Cleopatra's Needle.-Costume of Egyptian Women.-Flies.-Native Music.-Camseen.- Plague.-Public Baths.-Visit from the Aga of Alexandria. -Curiosities from Thebes.-Mr. Salt 113 LETTER XV. Embarkation on tlie Canal of Mahtnoudieh.- Maash.- Cock-roaches.-Journey from the Canal to El Aft.-Natives.-Scenery on the Nile.- Flirting Scene.-Giovanni, Cameriere to Napoleon.- Boulac 124 LETTER XVI. Grand Cairo.-British Consulate.-Style of living there.- Overland Passage to India.-Affray.-Visit to Mahomet All.-Native Music.-Camseen.-Soubra . 137 LETTER XVII. Arrival of Sir Hudson Lowe.-Citadel.-Joseph's Hall and Well.-Palaces.-Slave-Market 148 LETTER XVIII. Pic-nic at the Pyramids.-Ride thither.-Sphynx,-Ascent and Interior of the Pyramid of Cheops.- Hippopotamus Page 155 LETTER XIX. Cangia.-Benisouf.-Gebel Sheik Hassan.-Miniet.-Caves of Beni Hassan 163 LETTER XX. Life on the Nile, and Scenery.-Sheik Ababdi, the Ancient Antinoe.- Monfalout.-Sirut.-Djebbel Heredy.-Alarm of Robber Pirates.-Intense heat . . 172 LETTER XXI. Arrival at Thebes.-Visit from the Cacheff of Luxor.- Superb Temple.-Cacheff's House.-Magnificent Temple of Carnac.-Sesostris.-Egyptian Dynasties . 183 LETTER XXII. Biban Ool Moolk.-Tomb of Sesostris, or Amun Mai Ra-meses.-Arab attendants.-Tomb of Rhamses III. 195 LETTER XXIII. Memnonium.-Medinet Abou.:-Colossal Statues.-Shammy and Tammy.-Mummies.-Curiosities discovered in the Tombs of the Kings 201 LETTER XXIV. Kenne.- Preparations for the Desert.-Temple of Dendera.- Specimen of Egyptian Deceit 210 LETTER XXV. Camseen.-Walk by the Nile.-Caravans of Moggrebyn Hadjes.-Preparations for departure.-Inopportune visit of the Cacheffof Kenne Page 216 LETTER XXVI. Takhtrouan, or Native Litter.-Village of Sheraffa.-Ababde Dandy.- Tombs.-Camels at their supper.-Garden.- Tomb of the Sultan's Son 225 LETTER XXVII. Desert of the Thebaid.- Caravan. - Alarm of predatory Arabs.-Caravansera.-Village of Bir Ambar.-Legayta. -Arrival of Caravans 239 LETTER XXVIII. Adel Cashia.-Beautiful Nights in the Desert.-Song of the Camel-drivers.-Caravan becomes separated.-Alarm.-Adabiah.-Mountains of valuable Marbles.-Pleasant life in the Desert.-Arrival at Cosseir.-Abstract of Journey across the Desert 252 LETTER XXIX. Cosseir.-Egyptian House.-Sun rises like a pillar of fire! Red Sea.-Beautiful colour.-Distress from want of water. -Locusts.-Vultures.-Moggrebyn Hadjes. - Arrival of Franks.-Visit from the Cacheff of Cosseir .263 LETTER XXX. Embarkation on the Red Sea.-Arab Dow.-Hadjes on board.-Manners and customs,- -Hadje Ships.-Tambo.- Governor.-Astonishment of the Inhabitants at the sight of Franks.-Yambowys.-Reservoirs of water.-Arab architecture.-Windmills.-Tombs.-Superstitious customs -Mar Abraham, Bishop of Jerusalem Page 274 LETTER XXXI. Coast of the Hedjaz.-Beauty of the waters of the Red Sea.-Coral Reefs.-Bay of Arabok.-Jaharmo.-Initiatory rite of the Hadje.-Assumption of the Ihram.-Barren shore.-Difficulty of return to the Arab Dow 294 LETTER XXXII. Djidda.-House of Hoseyn Aga.-Divan.-Oriental manner of concluding a bargain.-Traditions concerning Djidda 803 LETTER XXXIII. The George Cruttenden, a Native Vessel.-Embarkation.--Cock-roaches -Crew.-Natives of Hindoostan.-Oppressive Climate.-Arrival at Hodeida . 312 LETTER XXXIV. Hodeida.-Arab House and Architecture.-Castles.-Garden of Dates.-Wild Arabs.-Coffee.-Camel's flesh.- Hyenas.-Curiosity of Inhabitants concerning, and refusal to accept, Arab Testament.-Dowlah's Divan.-Banyans.-Ill-used race 321 LETTER XXXV. Tournament at Hodeida.-Visits to the Haram.-Manners and Customs of the Women.-Courteous behaviour331 LETTER XXXVI. Difficult return to the ship.-Mocha.-Residency.-Imaun of Sanaa.-Predilection for English articles.-Mosque of Sheik Hadli.-Caravansera.-Abyssinian Village.-Mahometan Festival.-War dance of the Arabs Page 341 LETTER XXXVII. Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb.-Manners of the Crew and Passengers.-Monsoon.-Rough weather.-Arrival at Bombay . 353 LETTER XXXVIII. Landing in Bombay.-Palanquin.-Government House.- First appearance of every thing delightful from contrast. -Anglo-Indian Breakfast.-English Letters.-Hamauls.-Chintz Poglie, and Road thither . 361 LETTER XXXIX. Monsoon.-Heavy rains.-Deficiency of rain produces great distress in India.-Tanks.-Evening Drive.-Great variety of nations and costumes at Bombay.-Vellard.-Breach Candy.-General rendezvous of the English . 370 LETTER XL. Pareil, the Government House.-Menagerie.-Tiger, and Tiger adventures.-Ourang Outang.-Horticulture not much attended to at Bombay.-Similar to that of the ancient Egyptians.-Flowers and Trees.-Mango of Ma-zagong. - Cocoa-nut-tree.-Bamboo.-Banana, or Plantain.-Banyan.-Peepul . . . 380 LETTER XLI. Vegetable productions of Bombay,-Fruits.-Rice-fields.- Animals.-The Horse. - Buffalo.-Squirrel.-Baya, or Grosbeak.-Fire-flies and other Insects 393 LETTER XLII. Devastation caused by Termites, or White Ants.-Their extraordinary Nests, and powers of destruction.-Black Ants.-Immense size of their Nests.-Fish, Bumbelo, Pomfret, and Prawns. - Bazaar. - J ungle Fowl. - Our Poultry of Indian origin.-Turkey and Ham never-failing dishes at Bombay.-Rage for European Articles.-Native China never used by the English 402 LETTER XLIII. House-rent at Bombay.-Bungalow.-Bee-hive.-Land and Sea Breezes.-Shipping and Trade at Bombay.-English articles scarce in India 412 LETTER XLIV. Cocoa-nut-day at Bombay.-Native Manners not to be properly appreciated at *he Presidency.-Cocoa-nut-day as celebrated at Poorbunder.-Indian Trade mentioned in the Bible.-Commerce perhaps intended as a means of Christianizing the World. - Trade in the Red Sea.- Coffee of Mocha.-Coffee said not to be known to the Ancients 420